Science of Aging Skin
Intrinsic vs. Extrinsic Aging 
Intrinsic Aging
Genetics certainly plays a role in determining how our skin will age. No matter what we do to try and stop it, intrinsic aging is a part of life.
For example, collagen and elastin production slows down as we age, and wrinkles will start to form. Especially for women (and particularly during menopause), oil production slows down, resulting in drier skin.
While we can’t change how our bodies are programmed, you can help reduce signs of intrinsic aging by: maintaining a healthy sleep schedule, exercising, drinking plenty of water, eating healthy, avoiding excessive alcohol and caffeine intake, taking your vitamins, and no smoking (yet another reason to end the habit!)
Intrinsically aged skin is typically on the drier side with some expression lines, but is overall healthy and should be worn with pride!
Extrinsic Aging
This is the type of aging that we do to ourselves! The good news is that we can do plenty of things to help control extrinsic aging.
The number one cause of unnecessary aging by far is the sun (aside from causing cancer, sun damage causes sun spots AND breaks down collagen and elastin). Other factors include environmental pollutants, air quality and humidity. Also consider your home care routine…Do you have poor maintenance habits? Are you using ingredients not suited for your skin?
Typical signs of extrinsic aging are sun spots (especially on face, hands and neck), premature wrinkles, sallow skin color, loss of tone and elasticity, and broken capillaries.
How to Treat Aging Skin
There is no universal, magic ingredient to treat aging. A combo of good ingredients, along with daily sunscreen, is key. Here are a few tips for addressing the most coming aging concerns:
Dryness
Aging skin tends to lack oil. Especially for post-menopausal women, skin can start to produce less sebum.
Add moisture with ingredients like:
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Sodium PCA
- Glycerin.
Try: Skin Hydrating Booster, Super Rich Repair, Skin Hydrating Mask
Lack of Collagen and Elastin
These fibers reside in our dermal layer, and naturally start to deplete with age. The sun makes them deplete at a quicker rate. When we start losing collagen and elastin, skin starts to sag, and wrinkles develop.
Help your skin to replenish collagen and elastin levels with:
- Peptides
- VItamin A & Vitamin-A derivatives like Retin-A, Renova
- Magnesium Ascorbal Phosphate
- Grape Extract
- Soy Isoflavanoids
Try: Antioxidant HydraMist, Renewal Lip Complex, Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF 30, MAP-15 Regenerator, Super Rich Repair, Power Rich
Free Radical Damage
Free radicals are unstable molecules that have lost an electron (due to the sun, oxygen, pollution, etc.). They steal an electron from other molecules in an effort to save themselves, which in turn damages the cell from which it steals. The result is a cascading effect that can lead to inflammation, disease, age spots, etc.
Free radicals can be neutralized through the use of antioxidants. Antioxidants are substances that have been proven to slow, stop or neutralize the damaging effects of free radicals.
Here are a few antioxidants to look for in your skin care products:
- Vitamin A (retinol)
- Vitamin C (ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate)
- Vitamin E (tocopherol)
- Ginko Biloba Leaf Extract
- Grape Seed Extract
- Pyrus Malas (Apple) Fruit Extract
- Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Extract
- Polyphenols (ie: Green Tea, White Tea, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Extract)
While a large amount of Dermalogica products contain antioxidants, we would like to highlight: Antioxidant HydraMist, MultiVitamin Power Concentrate, MAP-15 Regenerator, MultiVitamin Power Firm
Wrinkles
When sugar comes into contact with proteins (ie: collagen), glycation occurs and disrupts the functioning of the dermis. AGEs are formed, which can cause inflammation, inhibits cell growth, and contributes to cross-linking of collagen (which leads to wrinkling!).
To control AGEs, we need ingredients that bind to sugars so that this reaction cannot occur. There are currently a limited amount of ingredients that can do this:
- Glucosamine
- Soy Isoflavanoids
- Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide
Try: Antioxidant HydraMist, Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF30, MAP-15 Regenerator
Slow Cell Turnover
Our skin produces cells in the dermal layer. Those cells then move through our 5 layers of skin and end up on the surface. When we are young, this process happens quickly. As we age, this cell renewal process slows down. The result is dull skin. To keep skin looking young, smooth and healthy, use exfoliating products with:
- Lactic Acid
This Alhpa Hydroxy Acid helps speed up our cell turnover rate, thus giving you a younger glow.
Try: MultiVitamin Thermafoliant
Resource: International Dermal Institute
Click here to customize your home care routine today!
What's the press saying about Age Smart?
![]() | Elle, February 2009 Elle readers voted Super Rich Repair as a Top 5 "Best Winter Warrier." |
![]() | Harpers Bazaar, December 2008 Renewal Lip Complex helps "stimulate collagen and reverse sun damage over time." |
![]() | Glamour, August 2008 MultiVitamin Thermafoliant is listed as an editor's go-to favorite: "Finally an exfoliator that doesn't feel like I'm rubbing sandpaper on my face." |
![]() | In Style, February 2008 Editors recommend Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF 30 to help prevent sagging. wrinkling and sun damage on the vulnerable neck area with face creams offering UVA and UVB protections and antioxidants like vitamin E and white tea. |
![]() | Self, February 2008 "Customize your cream" when skin needs a pick-me-up: editors recommend MAP-15 Regenerator. "This Vitamin C-infused treatment stimulates skin for an extra oomph of radiance." |




