Exfoliation
Exfoliating is one of the most important (and one of the most misunderstood) steps of skin care!
The dictionary defines exfoliation as:
_eks-foh-lee-ey-shuh n
The removal of the oldest dead skin cells on the skin’s outermost surface; has been used for ages to help maintain the skin.
This guide clarifies the different forms of exfoliation, and will help you determine what is right for you!
Why Exfoliate?
Exfoliating is absolutely essential to achieve your best skin. To understand the importance of this step in your routine, let us explain the cycle of a skin cell…
Skin cells start in your dermis, and move through the 5 layers of your skin until they ultimately reach your stratum corneum (the outermost layer of your skin) where they harden and lose moisture. In fact, our skin produces over 5 billion cells every day! They will eventually flake off, but without regular exfoliation, those dead skin cells will sit on our skin’s surface and cause a variety of problems from dull, dry skin, to breakouts caused by a buildup of these cells in the pores.
While manual exfoliation can achieve this sloughing off process, we can add chemicals to our routine in an effort to help speed up this cell turnover process. This helps maintain a more youthful appearance by allowing new cells to come to the surface.
Mechanical Exfoliation
Refers to physically rubbing off dead skin cells with an abrasive (such as sugar, rice bran, salt, date seed, olive powder, corn cob meal, loofahs, microfiber cloths, etc.) Look for EXTRA FINE powders to avoid scratching the skin.
Not recommended for skin with breakouts
- The process of moving the exfoliating beads across the skin can cause bacteria to spread (use a chemical exfoliation as an alternative)
Benefits:
- Helps extract matter clogging pores
- Stimulates blood flow
- Makes skin smoother and improves skin’s ability to retain moisture
- For men- helps to lift the beard, which assists in preventing ingrown hairs and results in a closer shave
Skin Prep Scrub, Daily Microfoliant, Daily Clean Scrub, MultiVitamin Thermalfoliant, Exfoliating Body Scrub, The Ultimate Buffing Cloth, The Face Brush
Chemical Exfoliation
Refers to dissolving the intercellular “glue” that holds dead skin cells together by means of a chemical agent such as:
- Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
- Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)
- Retinol
- Enzymes
Alpha Hydroxy Acids
- Water soluble acids that remove dead skin cells
- Naturally occurring (typically derived from fruit and milk sugars)
- Lactic Acid – Milk
- Glycolic Acid – Sugar Cane
- Citric Acid – Oranges and Lemons
- Malic Acid – Apples and Pears
- Tartaric Acid – Grapes
Benefits:
- Improves appearance of lines and wrinkles
- Can lighten sun damaged skin
- Removes dead skin cells, causing skin to look brighter and smoother (allows skin to reflect light)
- Increases cellular turnover, which improves the barrier layer and creates a more youthful appearance
- May stimulate production of collagen and elastin
- Increases Glycosaminoglycans (GAG’s), which bind water to produce a plumping and moisturizing effect
Good to Know:
- Best suited for aging, sun damaged, and thicker skin
- Look for products with a concentration of 5% to 10%, with a pH of 3 to 4
- The pH determines the effectiveness…AHA’s can be gentle, but some can also be very harsh and therefore require more down time
- Darker skin is more susceptible to pigment changes
- Be sure to wear an SPF if using AHAs…they make the skin more susceptible to sun damage
Beta Hydroxy Acids
- Oil soluble, which means they can penetrate pores containing oil and exfoliate the dead skin cells stored in the pore
- This makes BHAs better for blackheads and whiteheads
Salicylic Acid
- Commonly used in acne treatments because it assists in shedding the epidermis of dead skin cells, thus helping to prevent clogged pores
- Less irritating than other hydroxy acids because it is derived from aspirin, which is an anti-inflamatory.
- Anti-inflammatory effects make it ideal for rosacea and acne
Good to Know:
- Darker skin is more susceptible to pigment changes
- Be sure to wear an SPF if using BHAs…they make the skin more susceptible to sun damage
Retinol
- Form of Vitamin A
Benefits:
- Can assist in preventing collagen breakdown
- Can assist in reversing photo-aging
- Can increase rate of skin turnover
- Also used in acne treatments
Good to Know:
- We recommend applying at night, as it is very active and could cause some irritation
- Be sure to wear an SPF if using any form of Vitamin A…it makes the skin more susceptible to sun damage
- We do not recommend using any form of Vitamin A during pregnancy
Enzymes
- These are protein digesting enzymes that essentially “digests” dead surface cells
- Commonly used enzymes in skin care are Papain (derived from papaya), Bromelain (derived from pineapple)
Good to Know:
- Not as active as other forms of chemical exfoliation…we recommend using them in addition to other forms of exfoliating
- Effectiveness is not dependent on pH
Caution!!!
Do not exfoliate if you:
- recently waxed in the area to be exfoliated
- have a sunburn
- are taking any photosensitizing medications
- are using Accutane (or have taken in the last 6 months), Retin-A, Renova, Tazorac or any
- medically prescribed exfoliating products
- are undergoing last treatments in the area to be exfoliated
- have any sensitive or injured skin in the area to de exfoliated
Please speak with your doctor if you have any concerns at all
Listen to Your Skin!!!
It is possible to over-exfoliate! Thicker skin can typically handle more exfoliation. We recommend starting with 2-3 times per week…if you skin reacts favorably, feel free to gradually add a day. Always look for signs of too much exfoliation:
- Irritation and breakouts
- Dehydrated and patchy areas
- Dry and/or itchy skin
- Redness, couperose conditions, rosacea-like symptoms
As always, speak with a skin therapist to determine what is best for your skin!
What's the press saying about Dermalogica exfoliants?
 | Marie Claire, August 2008 Daily Microfoliant is listed as Liv Tyler's on-set "beauty trick." |
 | O, The Oprah Magazine, June 2008 Want to polish skin without stripping it? Daily Resurfacer is perfect for daily exfoliation maintenance and leave-on formula fits easily into your skin care routine. |
 | In Style, May 2008 Kerry Washington keeps her glowing skin picture-ready with Gentle Cream Exfoliant. |