Have you stopped trying to read product labels because they just don’t make sense? Not anymore! Don’t just believe what marketers claim their products will do- learn how to decide for yourself.  Many companies think they can trick you into buying their products, but a quick glance at the label can often tell you all you need to know. So go grab a product, and read on to become your own cosmetic chemist (and never be fooled again)!

INGREDIENT CATEGORIES

These are the types of ingredients found in most skin care products:

Binding Agents – Ingredients that “hold” products together…some products have oil and water, which typically separate. Binding Agents keep products from separating.
Example: Glycerine

Emollients – Ingredients that lie on the surface of the skin to prevent water loss. They also fill in the lines of dry, dehydrated skin.
Hundreds of emollients exist, but here are a few common ones you may run across:
Example: Aloe, Cyclomethicone, Tocopherol, Urea, Shea Butter, Yeast, Retinyl  Palmitate, Algae Extract

Humectants – Ingredients that draw moisture to the skin (usually from the air). They help soften skin’s surface and diminish fine lines caused by dryness.
Example: Glycerine, Hyaluronic Acid, Lactic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Sodium PCA, Honey

Solvents – The purpose of these substances is to dissolve other ingredients
Example: Water, oil and alcohol 

Preservatives – Ingredients that are designed to prevent growth of microorganisms. They kill bacteria and keep products from spoiling, thus extending shelf life.
Example: Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben (basically anything ending in “paraben”)

Lubricants – These ingredients coat the skin, and reduce friction to allow the product to glide on smoothly.
Example: Silicone, Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone

Antioxidants – Ingredients that are commonly added to products because of their ability to “neutralize free radicals” (translation: they help prevent cell damage, thus keeping skin healthier). They also help maintain product freshness!
Example: Ascorbic Acid, Tocopherol, Roobios, Green Tea, Grape Seed, Gingko

Surfactants – Ingredients that help products to lather/foam. They help products to “glide” across the skin, and are often found is cleansers, soaps and shampoos.
Example: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate

pH Adjusters – Chemical-like acids (or buffers) that control the pH of formulas…our skin has a pH of 4.5 to 5.5, so we want most of our products to stay in that pH range (otherwise, skin can feel tight, dry and itchy). Exfoliants are an exception…a lower pH is preferred for an exfoliant to be effective.
Example: Acetic Acid, Aminomethyl Propanol, Ascorbic Acid, Ethanolamine, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate

LABEL REGULATIONS

The FDA oversees product labels. The Fair Packaging and Labeling Act sets regulations regarding the order in which ingredients are listed.

  • Cosmetics must begin with the ingredient of largest concentration. This is often times water (the “vehicle”).
  • If a cosmetic also makes a claim to correct a problem (as many skin care products do), the “active ingredient” is listed before all others.
    (The “active ingredient” is the primary therapeutic  agent, but isn’t necessarily the highest concentrated ingredient).
    Ex: For many acne products, you often see the “active ingredient” as 2% Salicylic Acid
  • Remaining ingredients must be listed as “other ingredients” or “inactive ingredients”, but that doesn’t necessarily mean that they aren’t benefiting your skin…it’s just a formality!
  • The 1% Rule states that if an ingredient is below 1% concentration, it may be listed in an order (as long as it’s after ingredients with a higher concentration)
    Good to know…while Salicylic Acid is always beneficial, it does not have exfoliating properties until it reaches a 2% or higher concentration
  • Ingredients with multiple names can be listed by the Latin name, followed by the more recognizable English name
    Ex: Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract
  • Vitamins must be listed by their chemical name, so that people aren’t tricked into thinking it provides nutritional supplementation
    Ex: Vitamin C may be listed as Ascorbic Acid, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, etc.

INGREDIENTS TO AVOID

Next time you are considering purchasing a product, beware of these commonly used ingredients! Why do companies use bad components? Typically, because they are cheap to obtain, and they think you won’t know any better!

Mineral Oil – A known comedogenic, meaning it can clog pores and cause breakouts. Many eye make-up removers contain Mineral Oil…if you have milia (small, white bumps) around your eye, check the ingredients on your products. Oh, and did we mention it’s a by-product of the petroleum industry?!

Lanolin – This is sheep skin oil extracted from the wool! Many people have reactions to Lanolin…especially eczema sufferers.

Fragrance – Many companies add fragrance for scent, but Dermalogica does not…a single fragrance is comprised of thousands of components, and are the #1 allergen in cosmetics!!! Dermalogica does use Essential Oils in some products, which are safe and provide a natural scent.

SD Alcohol – Please know that not all alcohols are bad…beware of SD Alcohol (commonly has a number after it), Ethanol and Isopropyl. These are super-drying, irritating, can cause hyperpigmentation and premature aging, and strips your skin of its natural protective barrier! Many products for oily skin contain “bad” alcohols for a quick fix- but in the long run, more problems will arise.
Please note that many alcohols are just fine (like Benzyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, etc.)

Hydroquinone – Found in many skin lightening products, this product is a potential carcinogenic! At the very least, many people find it highly irritating. It has been banned in Europe, and is currently being reviewed in the US.


NATURAL VS. ORGANIC…WHAT DOES IT ALL MEAN?

Don’t be fooled by reading these words on a label and assuming the product is better for you! Currently, regulations for these terms are very “relaxed”, meaning that companies can make misleading claims to reel you in. There’s a lot of current debate on the topic, so let’s look at what we know.

First, “natural” or “organic” products make the assumption that synthetic ingredients are bad, and “natural” is good. In fact, many synthetically derived ingredients (ie: Hyaluronic Acid) provide GREAT benefit to the skin! And vice versa, just because it came from the earth doesn’t mean you should put it on your skin. The process by which they remove a plant from the ground, clean it, and prepare it for product distribution isn’t exactly “natural.”

Natural
“Natural” is a misleading term, because a company can claim their products to be “natural” if it has plant, mineral or algae-derived ingredients. Under these guidelines, most all products can claim to be “natural”.

Organic
“Organic” implies that ingredients are not modified, and there are no additives, chemicals, preservatives, or artificial colors/scents. HOWEVER, there are 4 levels of certification, so many skin care lines take advantage of these loose rules to fool you! A label that says “made from organic ingredients”, means it may just have a minimal number of organic ingredients (but is mostly inorganic).

Remember this: only products with a USDA seal are 100% organic!

The downside to truly organic? It won’t have preservatives, so shelf life is minimal. Organic products are typically not as results-driven, either. It is completely up to you to weigh the benefits...just do your research to ensure you are buying from a reputable company!

Congratulations- you are now a highly informed consumer! Read Ingredients and Buzz Words to familiarize yourself with common ingredients.

-C. Kruse

Note: Skin Care Logic chose Dermalogica products for this site because we find them to be safe, effective and honest. This information is not intended to speak poorly of other lines...we just want you to be armed with information before you choose products to use on your skin.



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Ingredients and Buzz Words