Ingredients and Buzz Words
Ever look at the ingredient list on your favorite products and wonder what it all means? Use this guide to help decipher some common ingredients and buzz words!
Ingredients
Algae Extract – softens and moisturizes; source of amino acids
Allantoin – soothing; healing; derived from Comfret Root
Aloe – hydrating; softening; healing; anti-inflammatory
Aniba Rosaeodora (Rosewood) Oil - calming; nourishing
Avobenzone - a chemical sunscreen that absorbs UVA radiation
Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf / Stem Extract - bamboo; the richest known source of natural Silica (which provides strength and pliability to collagen and elastin
Benzoyl Peroxide – drying ingredient; antibacterial; commonly used for blemishes and acne
Bisabolol – helps reduce sensitivity and inflammation
Bromelain – enzyme (helps digest keratinized cells) that helps promote exfoliation; derived from pineapple
Caffeine - helps regulate oil and fights free radicals; improves skin toning
Calendula – anti-inflammatory
Camphor – antiseptic; cooling properties; derived from a tree bark
Carbomer - a thickening agent; helps stabilize product ingredients
Chamomile – anti-inflammatory; derived from a flower
Citric Acid - pH adjster; preservative
Clove - See Eugenia Caryophyllus Flower Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract – helps firm skin by promoting adherence of desmosome attachments between cells
Dimethicone – Silicone; helps give products a velvety feel and allows for smoother application; helps enhance skin’s outer layer function
Echinacea – healing; anti-bacterial
Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Flower Extract - helps control pain and discomfort; antiseptic
Fumaric Acid - protects skin tissue from ozone damage; derived from a plant
Genestein – antioxidant; stimulates Hyaluronic Acid and collaged production; helps shield skin from UV-stimulated photodamage
Ginkgo Biloba – antioxidant; helps stimulate blood flow and oxygen consumption in tissues; rich source of tannins
Glucosamine HCL – stimulates cell sloughing and cell renewal
Glycerin – humectant; has strong water binding properties; softens skin
Glycolic Acid – alpha hydroxy acid derived from sugar cane; helps keep skin cells exfoliated; research shows it can be irritating, and Lactic Acid may be the better option
Grape Seed Extract – powerful antioxidant; soothing
Green Tea – antioxidant; anti-inflammatory; anti-bacterial; may help couperose skin
Hyaluronic Acid – holds up to 1,000 times it’s weight in water (making it extremely moisturizing); it is naturally produced in the skin, and starts to degrade as we age; great as a topical treatment because the body easily recognizes and accepts it; provides a moisturizing and “plumping” effect; may read as Sodium Hyaluronate. Learn more»
Hydrolized Soy Protein – helps firm and tone skin; a soy extract rich in protein fragments
Hydroquinone - this ingredient helps lighten dark spots, but is a potential carginogen; it has been banned in most countries, but is currently legal in the US; Dermalogica does not use hydroquinone because of its potential safety issues; known to cause contact dermatitis
Hypericum Perforatum Extract - AKA St. John's Wart; astringent; anti-inflammatory
Jojoba – lubricant; moisturizing ingredient; non-comedogenic emollient; extracted from beanlike seeds of a desert shrub
Lactic Acid – alpha hydroxy acid derived from milk; excellent for retexturizing skin stimulating cell renewal; best used at 5% to 8% concentration and pH of 3 to 4
Lavender – anti-inflammatory; antibacterial; known to balance, soothe and energize
Licorice – thought to help inhibit melanin synthesis because it acts as a tyrosinase inhibitor (helps decrease effects of hyperpigmentation); anti-irritant
Linoleic Acid - skin conditioner; smoothing agent; an essential fatty acid component of Vitamin F
Lysine - an essential amino acid. It is often used to improve the skin's condition.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate – see Vitamin C
Menthol - cooling; anti-inflammatory; natural peppermint extract
Methylparaben – one of the most frequently used preservatives; low sensitizing potential; combats bacteria and molds; known to be non-comdeogenic and non-toxic
Orzya Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil - contains actve ingredients (like Phytic Acid) that help gently exfoliante skin and control pigmentaton concerns
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 – stimulates collagen production and the formation of glucosaminoglycans
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3 – serves as a messenger to stimulate collagen and Hyaluronic Acid to increase skin tone and elasticity
Panthenol – ProVitamin B5; humectant
Papain – enzyme that “digests” keratin protein; derived from papaya
Papaya Propylene Glycol – humectant (draws water to the skin); helps to soften and moisturize the skin
Propylparaben – preservative; anti-microbial
Quaternium-75 – thickening agent
Quillaja Saponaria Bark Extract – cleansing and foaming agent; derived from the bark of a tree in South America
Raspberry / Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract – relaxes inflamed skin; non-stimulating; excellent for sensitive skin or skin irritated from shaving, acne, etc.
Retinol/Retinyl Palmitate – see Vitamin A
Rose Flower Oil – moisturizing; rich in Vitamin C; hydrating; helps protect from capillary damage; helps firm tissues
Rosemary / Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract – cleansing and purifying; antiseptic
Salicylic Acid – beta hydroxy acid; has exfoliating and antiseptic properties; great for oily skin experiencing blackheads; best used at 1% to 2% concentration and pH of 3 to 4
Seaweed - humectant; moisturizing properties, detoxifying; can help firm skin; high in vitamins (algae is a derivative of seaweed)
Silica - used as an exfoliating scrub
Sodium Laureth Sulfate – an effective cleansing, foaming agent derived from sodium salt
Sodium PCA – humectant; natural mineral salt
Squalene – desensitizing; nourishing; emmolient; derived from olives
Sulfur – naturally occurring element that aids in “peeling” of the skin (making it a useful treatment for breakouts); antiseptic properties
Super Oxide Dismutase – very powerful antioxidant
Tea Tree Oil – antibacterial; anti-fungal; powerful essential oil
Titanium Dioxide - a physical sunscreen ingredient that is typically ground into ultra-fine porcelain particles that work by reflecting the sun's rays
Triclosan - antimicrobial agent that kills bacteria by interfering with their cell membrane function
Tyrosine – helps other ingredients penetrate into skin more effectively; amino acid
Vitamin A – antioxidant; known to help stimulate collagen and reverse early signs of photo-aging; can be seen in different forms (such as retinol, retinoic acid, tretinoin, Retin-A and Renova); some forms require a prescription, but some can be found in over-the-counter products; proven to help acne; please wear a sunscreen if using any form (Vitamin A make the skin sensitive to sun damage)
Vitamin C – known to help with collagen formation and wound healing; helps maintain body’s connective tissue, lymph system, bones and cartilage; facilitates burn recovery; antioxidant; may be read as Ascorbic Acid or Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (which is a very stable form of Vitamin C)
Vitamin E – a wonderful antioxidant; helps improve the functioning of your outer layer of skin; may be read as Tocopherol, Tocopheryl or Tocopherol Acetate
Witch Hazel – soothes inflammation; natural astringent
Xanthan Gum – use to thicken and stabalize products; emulsifier
Zinc Gluconate - helps regulate oil glands; fights free radicals
Antioxidants – Help prevent damaged cells (free radicals) from causing further damage. They do so by basically neutralizing the unstable oxygen molecules from taking electrons from other molecules. Without free radicals, these damaged cells can create a chain reaction of cells stealing electrons from each other. The result is damaged skin that can create a variety of problems. Antioxidants can come from vitamins, as well as a host of other ingredients!
Chemical Sunscreen – Protects skin from the sun’s rays by absorbing the UV rays that hit them and therefore absorbing the radiation. Common chemical sunscreens are Avobenzone, Oxybenzone, Octisalate and Octinoxate. If your skin is not sensitive, we recommend chemical sunscreens (or a blend of chemical and physical).
Collagen and Elastin – Protein fibers found in the dermis. Collagen makes up about 70% of the dermis. As these fibers break down, we start to see wrinkles and signs of aging. While they naturally break down as we age, the sun is very damaging to collagen and elastin. It is important to wear and SPF every day to help prevent signs of premature aging!
Dermis – The layer of connective tissues below the epidermis. It is about 25 times thicker than the epidermis, and contains blood and lymph vessels, oil and sweat glands, nerves and arrector pili muscles (which cause goose bumps).
Desmosomes – Structures that hold skin cells together. We want to use chemical exfoliants to help break this bond and keep skin looking “fresh”.
Dilated Capillaries – AKA broken capillaries, broken blood vessels, etc. These appear as red or pink small lines, and may be clustered together and give the appearance of a bruise. They are commonly seen on the legs, face and nose. While they are commonly hereditary, they can be caused by the sun, pregnancy, or an injury. If you aggressively extract around the nose or are prone to allergies, you may see a cluster around the nose. Laser is often the best option for removal.
Emollients – Ingredients that help spread and keep other agents on the skin. They help lubricate the skin and guard skin’s barrier function. Emollients help prevent dehydration by lying on top of the skin and trapping water.
Enzymes – Used as exfoliating agents. They basically “eat away” at debris and dead skin cells on the surface. Great to have in products, but not as effective as chemical exfoliants.
Epidermis – The top 5 layers of the skin that acts as a protective barrier. These 5 layers are (in order from outer layer to deepest layer): stratum corneum, stratum lucidum, stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum, stratum germinativum)
Essential Oils – Derived from herbs. They can have many different effects on both the skin and the psyche (ie: stimulating, soothing). Avoid essential oils during pregnancy.
Exfoliation – Peeling or “sloughing off” the outer layer of skin. Skin cells move through the layers of your epidermis, and end up on your outer later of skin. They will sit here until they eventually fall off, or until you exfoliate them! Exfoliating can help improve breakouts and acne, dehydration, hyperpigmentation, and a variety of other skin conditions!
Humectants – Draw moisture to the skin and soften skin’s surface. Help reduce fine lines caused by dehydration.
Hyperpigmentation – Overproduction of pigment. The result is dark spots on the skin. Drugs can be a cause, but the SUN is the primary cause of hyperpigmentation. Wear a sunscreen! Products can help reduce brown spots, but it is best to prevent them before they occur. Try to treat as early as possible…older spots can be more difficult to get rid of.
Hypoallergenic - Describes ingredients that may be less likely to cause allergies
Hypopigmentation – Lack of pigment. Can result in spots that are lighter than skin color. May be caused by many factors (like trauma or infection). The good news is that it may go away over time. Cosmetics can be a good alternative in the meantime.
Keratin – A protein fiber that protects the skin and is found in all layers of the epidermis. Hard keratin is found in hair and nails. Dead keratinocytes make up 95% of the epidermis, which is why we need to exfoliate them off!
Keratosis Pilaris – Very common condition that appears as bumps (often on the upper arms and in the cheeks). It is caused by blocked follicles, and often times hereditary. Try exfoliating to help alleviate symptoms (especially exfolaints with Lactic Acid). We love Body Hydrating Cream as a treatment.
Free Radicals – Aggressive oxygen atoms that have lost an electron, and are therefore unstable. They must then look for an electron from other atoms, which can cause a damaging cascade effect.
Noncomedogenic - Means the product will not clog pores or cause comedones
Open Comedones – AKA blackheads; they are “black” because the pore is open and therefore exposed to oxygen.
Physical Sunscreens – Work by reflecting and scattering UV rays. These are a better option for people who are sensitive to chemicals in sunscreens. Commonly used physical ingredients are Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide.
Preservatives – Very important functional ingredients in products. They help prevent microorganisms (like bacteria and molds) from developing. Preservatives also help prevent chemical changes that can affect the function of the product.
Resveratrol - A plant compound that is being researched for possible anti-aging properties. Peanuts and grapes appear to be the most common edible sources.
Stratum Corneum - The outermost layer of the skin. The “Barrier Layer”. It takes a cell (or keratinocyte) approximately 28 days to reach this layer. The cells of the stratum corneum are biologically dead, but they still have the important job of creating the first line of defense for our skin (ie: preventing water loss, protecting us from invading toxic materials and UV radiation, etc.).
Surfactants – Help to reduce surface tension between skin and the product (basically, they help the product spread better).
Note: This list is not all-inclusive…it is to help consumers decipher commonly used ingredients in skin care products, and will continuously be updated.
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